I went ahead and changed my own oil, oil filter, cabin filter, and sent in a Oil Sample to Black Stone Labs. The 2017 Toyota Tundra has canister filter. This requires a special filter tool to remove. I initially thought I could use the same one I saw on a You Tube Video for the 2015 Model. I was wrong. I ended up draining the oil from my engine through the regular drain plug. When I tried using the incorrect filter tool, I could not remove the filter. I had to call an Uber Driver to pick me up and take me to the local Parts Store. I found a Tool that said it could remove Toyota Tundra Filters. It was larger and more durable than the original tool I was using. When I left the parts store I noticed across the street a couple and some random guy were fighting. I called the police on them and got into another Uber Car for my ride home. The pictures above show the sample bottle I used and the unique mailing container provided by Black Stone Labs. I am interested in seeing the results. I had a little over 300 miles on the engine before switching to AMSOIL Signature Series. I put a little over 10,000 miles on the Oil. I also used Lucas Fuel Injector cleaner on almost every single fill up. Several years from now I want to break down the engine to see how clean the internals are. AMSOIL Signature Series can last up to 1 year or 25,000 miles. The length of the oil life depends on several factors such as: driving conditions, engine oil capacity, heat, engine type, and a bunch more. I drive my Toyota Tundra in bad southern California traffic over 40 miles each day. Its mainly highway miles but sometimes the highways here are stop and go. I also changed the Cabin Air Filter. That was very easy to do. The Cabin Filter is used to filter the air that goes into your A/C before it enters your car. I used a WIX Brand I ordered off the AMSOIL Website. I noticed it was much thicker than the stock filter. I also spread the filter open and saw some small dead bugs. This filter was around 7 months old and it already started turning dark.
I had a chance this weekend to replace the differential (rear end) fluid in my 2017 Toyota Tundra SR5. I used AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W 90, it is a GL 5 fluid. First, I cleaned the exterior of the truck and took it to a touchless carwash to clean the bottom. After the vehicle was dried I sprayed AMSOIL Heavy Duty Degreaser on the differential cover and wiped everything off. I made sure the differential was completely dry and free of any contamination. Besides a magnet to attract ferrous particles, there is no filter element on this differential. If you get debris inside of it, it will keep circulating and potentially eat away at your gears. I put the vehicle on a level part of my driveway. I then used a 24MM socket to open up the fill plug first. It is a good practice to open the fill plug first. If you drain all the fluid out and can’t get the fill plug off, you could end up having to drill out the fill plug and remove the cover to get the shavings out. I then drained the old differential fluid. I was surprised on how dark the fluid was for being under 5,000 miles. It was not that bad but I did see a lot of metallic particles floating in it. I read on a few forums that this is normal for breaking in a truck. I don’t like the suggested drain intervals. In my opinion, you should do an initial differential fluid change around 5,000 miles. After the fluid was drained I cleaned off the magnetic end of the bolt. I then lubed the threads with new gear fluid as a good practice. I then installed the drain bolt and torqued it with a calibrated torque wrench. I pumped the Severe Gear 75W 90 into the differential and reinstalled the fill bolt. I did a double check on both bolt torques and took it for a test drive to see if it leaked. You don’t want to over tighten the bolts. If you over tighten, you could snap the bolt or crack your differential. I am trying to find the factory workshop manual for a 2017 Toyota Tundra SR5. These are more detailed than the car maintenance manual you get when you buy the car. They are the manuals that the mechanics at the dealer use. So far, I replaced the oil and differential fluid with AMSOIL products. My next goal is to replace the transmission fluid. I have not found a solid writeup on how to replace the transmission fluid. I am looking for one that shows you how to remove all the fluid at once. This Toyota Tundra feels like a solid well-built truck. I am not a fan of the bad has mileage. I am not a full throttle on the entertainment side, but these basic speakers have to go.
Right before the rain started I washed and waxed my truck. I first sprayed fresh water on the truck to take off any loose dirt. I did the same for the wheels and wheel wells.
I then cleaned the wheel wells first and the tires. I used spray on product that was supposed to break up and dirt / assist in the cleaning of the wheel wells. I don’t believe it worked that great. If you use products like that, make sure you spray it all off with water. You don’t want any kind of build up to accumulate over time.
After the wheels I very carefully used a soft pad with car soap on it to lightly wipe the truck down. I had to buy a soft pad that had an extension to get the top. I don’t recommend you go with the harsher brush type. The one I used was soft like cotton balls. I misted off the soap and repeated.
I then dried the car off and used a quick wax spray that had good reviews. These types of sprays require some work but not a whole lot. They also don’t last as long as a regular wax. I did some research and found out it was suggested you wax your car at least 4 times a year. A lot of people in northern states do it right before it starts snowing to protect their paint. After the week of rain my car looks dusty and dirty again. The next time I wash my car I’m going to use a wax that had greater durability reviews. I will also change out the differential fluid when the car is dried off. It is a better practice to work on your car when it is clean. The last thing you want to do is get dirt inside of your engine, transmission, differential or any type of fluid system.
I decided it was time to turn in my 2012 Acura TL. The car had nothing mechanically wrong with it. I started to realize I needed a truck. My Acura could only hold so much in it. I remember when I
was remodeling the Condo I sold. I had door trim going from the windshield to the back window. I had door trim going from the back
window to outside of the passengers side window. Not to long ago
I had to transport a car engine in the back seat. So I went and traded
the car in for a 2017 Toyota Tundra. It was like a Christmas Present
for myself. I honestly am enjoying the truck. It is my first brand new
vehicle. The truck comes with synthetic oil in it. But its not AMSOIL.
For me, that’s a problem. If I am going to make payments for 66 Months, I want to make sure my engine is going to get the best protection. So several quarts of AMSOIL Signature Series 0W-20
and an AMSOIL Oil Filter down to a drive through quick lube place.
They told me my car did not need an oil change but I insisted.
I was able to watch them drain my old oil, remove the old filter, put my new filter on, and fill it up with AMSOIL. I understand the majority of the people out their consider this excessive to do it this early, but its worth it for a better peace of mind. I honestly do not
want to buy another vehicle. Before going I kept searching around
the internet. It turns out a lot of people do this with new cars.
I usually change my own oil myself but I never changed a cartridge filter before. I feel confident I can change this type of filter without any problems. I ordered some “Nerf” Bar or Side Steps from a small
small business out of Florida. They should be getting here shortly.
I am going to post some pictures of the install.
Changing Porsche 928 S4 Differential Gasket and Fluid
I recently took on the task of replacing my 1989 Porsche 928 S4 differential gasket and fluid. When you look at videos online the Porsche 928 S4 has a different size Allen Key than the non S4. Here are the general steps I used, this is to aid with the manual:
- Buy AMSOIL Severe Gear 75W 90 4 Quarts (you will have some left over)
- Buy the pump (its only a couple dollars)
- Buy new crush rings, its the cheapest Porsche part I have ever bought. Less than $1.25 at the dealer.
- Evenly raise car in the air and put on stands. Never get under the car without stands.
- Clean the differential for several hours. You don’t want any grime inside your differential.
- Place oil pan under car.
- Open the fill plug and take off. If you cannot remove this do no proceed without an experts help.
- Open the drain plug and lets all the oil fluid drain.
- If you only want to change the fluid simply put the drain plug back in and torque to the manual specs. Then fill up using the pump. I don’t think its possible to not use a pump because of the location of the fill hole. Make sure you pump some gear oil on the threads of the drain and fill plugs to they don’t get corroded. Also torque to the specs in the manual.
- If you want to take off the cover to replace the gasket you need to drain the fluid.
- Loosen the exhaust clamps so you can move the exhaust piped out of the way.
- Remove heat shield off of the differential using the special tool, I took a picture of it.
- Remove the differential cover
- Replace gasket, put back on drain plug, fill up, and put back on fill plug.
Here is my recent YouTube upload. I used the AMSOIL Heavy Duty Degreaser to help clean up my differential in my 1989 Porsche 928 S4. The product works very good. Before using the degreaser I used a generic brake cleaning solvent. The brake cleaner worked a little bit but did not brake apart the baked on crud. I would also like to add the AMSOIL Degreaser smell is not that bad. It smells like citrus.
I got a few things accomplished this weekend. I picked up the top, bottom, and oil pan of my Porsche 928 S4 Bare Block. I previously wrapped the engine in bubble wrap before leaving New York. Not having a truck and out of trunk room, I had to ship the engine in the back seat of my 2012 Acura TL.
My goal was to start polishing the engine a little bit more before ordering parts to assemble it. I initially bought a Harbor Freight Polishing Kit to use with my existing Harbor Freight Rotary Tool. It was a Dual-Fail. The polishing kit did not fit on the Rotary Tool. Can you believe that? I tried using the polishing kit with the cordless Dewalt drill. It seemed to gunk up in crevices. I stopped using that and started using some aluminum wheel polish. I then used some special lapping compound to prep the Cylinders. Normally someone would use an engine hone. This Porsche 928 S4 Engine is made of a special Aluminum Alloy Called Reynolds 390 or Alusil. So you have to use felt. I don’t recommend you do it with a drill like myself.
Long time no see. A few months ago I got an e-mail from my Web Hosting Provider. They said they fried a Solid State Driver while attempting to upgrade my Web Hosting Sever. You would think they do back ups right? Nope. I lost years worth of images, videos, and information. Now I have to start all over again. I plan on doing my own back ups from now on.
The good news is I have my own garage now. No more sneaking maintenance in a Condo Parking Garage. I plan on posting more articles and videos shortly. I am now located in Lemon Grove, CA (still part of San Diego County).